Friday, April 19, 2013
This blog is closed.
In an effort to consolidate the number of sites I manage, this blog is closed. All new posts are at my main blog, blog.smcgrath.com
Monday, August 22, 2011
Replace leaking output flange seal
So a while ago (2008) I replaced my clutch with a SBC stage 3 and Valeo G60 single mass flywheel. Incidentally, I don't recommend using this combo as there is clearly some sort of clearance issue with the clutch fork. Anyway, I won't get into that in this post.
Due to a small mishap I had with the transmission when I was lowering it out of the car, I damaged the output flange seal on the passenger side. This is the seal where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. I replaced only the seal, and it lasted a little over a year before it started leaking tranny oil. I have arrived at the conclusion that the sleeve was also damaged.
After a year or so of letting it slowly leak, it's finally time to do something about it. I purchased the entire output flange seal sleeve assembly (with the seal in it) from idparts.com. I highly recommend getting this part if you ever have to replace the output flange seal. It's well worth the extra $10 or so, and not that much more difficult (possibly easier?) to install.
The Bentley manual says that the output flange and seal on the passenger side can be removed simply by unbolting the drive axle and rotating the steering wheel all the way to the right. However, I found this to be incorrect. I followed the procedure for the left hand side, unbolting the steering knuckle and swung out the wheel bearing housing, and then had plenty of room to do what I needed.
As I jacked up the car, I noticed the oil spilling out of my rear shock. Looks like I know what the next chapter in vehicle repair will be.
Due to a small mishap I had with the transmission when I was lowering it out of the car, I damaged the output flange seal on the passenger side. This is the seal where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. I replaced only the seal, and it lasted a little over a year before it started leaking tranny oil. I have arrived at the conclusion that the sleeve was also damaged.
After a year or so of letting it slowly leak, it's finally time to do something about it. I purchased the entire output flange seal sleeve assembly (with the seal in it) from idparts.com. I highly recommend getting this part if you ever have to replace the output flange seal. It's well worth the extra $10 or so, and not that much more difficult (possibly easier?) to install.
The Bentley manual says that the output flange and seal on the passenger side can be removed simply by unbolting the drive axle and rotating the steering wheel all the way to the right. However, I found this to be incorrect. I followed the procedure for the left hand side, unbolting the steering knuckle and swung out the wheel bearing housing, and then had plenty of room to do what I needed.
As I jacked up the car, I noticed the oil spilling out of my rear shock. Looks like I know what the next chapter in vehicle repair will be.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Zimmerman cross drilled rotors, and new pads
Zimmerman Cross drilled rotors being put on the front. The old ones were warped caused by driving the car overloaded, and/or the torque-happy tire-jockeys down at the cheapy tire shop.
Monday, October 13, 2008
New Clutch Is In
The most recent thing I did was replace the clutch and flywheel with a G60 and a Valeo VR6 clutch. This clutch will hold more torque than the stock TDI clutch. It doesn't bolt up to the stock TDI dual-mass flywheel, so that has been replaced with the G60 flywheel, which is a single mass.
Took me about 10 hours total, at a slow easy pace. I've done this job on an old rabbit before, but this is my first time on this car. The new clutch definitely holds more torque, but still slipping with the pedal to the floor. I probably under spec'd it. However suppose I should drive it for a while and see if it 'breaks in'. At this point I've given it so much hell that I probably glazed the disc surface pretty good.
Took me about 10 hours total, at a slow easy pace. I've done this job on an old rabbit before, but this is my first time on this car. The new clutch definitely holds more torque, but still slipping with the pedal to the floor. I probably under spec'd it. However suppose I should drive it for a while and see if it 'breaks in'. At this point I've given it so much hell that I probably glazed the disc surface pretty good.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
